The Palio in Siena

Question: What Italian event would noted Italy travel writer Pauline Frormmer describe as “a combination of the Super Bowl, Mardi Gras, and World War III?” 

Answer: Italy’s one and only Palio Di Siena. 

The Palio is not just any old horse race. It is so much more than that. This is a 700- year-old Italian tradition, unlike anything I have ever seen in my life. After hearing about il Palio, a horse race that has an “anything goes” mentality in the pursuit of attaining the title, my roommates and I decided we absolutely had to see this race for ourselves. On July 2nd, we hopped on a train making our way up to the town of Siena. This town is set in the rolling hills of Tuscany and still holds true to its medieval roots through its impressive medieval structures such as the Palazzo Pubblico with its imposing bell tower.

Once in Siena, we wandered through the backstreets to see different colorful contrade flags adorning each building. Originally, each contrada was a different administrative district in Siena and each still is represented by a different symbol. Today, they no longer function as administrative districts, but the residents of each contrada remain faithful to and proud of their areas.

Yellow flags denote the Aquila area

To ensure that we would be able to see the race, we arrived at Piazza del Campo around 3:30pm for a race that did not start until 7:30pm.  We had four long hours of heat, sun, sweat, and anticipation ahead of us. Under the heat of the sun and standing in the scorching Piazza del Campo, each moment seemed like an eternity, but we knew that in the end our dedication would pay off.

Piazza del Campo at 3:30pm

Slowly the piazza began to fill up and the anticipation and excitement ran through the crowd. By six in la sera, the piazza was packed with people when the hour and a half long parade began. Each contrada horse was flanked by a snare drummer, flagsmen, and il duce, who impersonates the military commanders in a full suit of armor of ancient days.  This display of history is full of colors, passion, and pride as each racing contrada is represented and “shown off” to the crowd.  Of course, it also adds to the excitement and anticipation of the day.

The crowds at the Palio by 7pm

By 7pm, there was so much excitement in the air; it was hard to stand still. Once the medieval parade had ended, the contrade returned to the dirt laid track around the edge of the piazza. As the order of the horse's lineup was called, the crowd “ooohed” and “aahhed” depending on their contrade position. As the horses and jockeys approached the line, I had never heard so many people be so silent in my entire life. If a pin had dropped, I am sure I would have heard it. Finally, the first horse took off and took us all by surprise. While the competitors made their three loop trek, jockeys flew off their horses, horses stumbled into one another, and the fans went absolutely nuts.  I could feel adrenaline coursing through my veins and I was merely standing cheering for my contrada of choice, Leocorno (Unicorn). 

As the horses made the last turn, we could see Selva (Forest) leading out in front. As this jockey and horse crossed the finish line, spectators began hopping the barriers into the race track to congratulate the jockey. Selva's fans began singing, dancing, kissing and hugging each other, and cheering, so excited to see their contrada take the title.

Only the beginning of post race celebrations

This was just the beginning of a long night of parades of dignified, singing residents ranging from 12 year old boys with drums to 80 year old men waving their flags with honor. It was amazing to see the jubilation and satisfaction each person took in the triumph of their contrada.

(bandiera del Leocorno)

Being a part of this 700 year old tradition in Siena was an unforgettable experience. One day, I hope to return and maybe even see my adopted contrada, il Leocorno triumph!  
 
Article contributed by Anne Kerchberger begin_of_the_skype_highlightingend_of_the_skype_highlighting. Anne is studying abroad in Italy, experiencing the trials and tribulations of truly living as a Roman as well as traveling Italy to explore the regional differences of Il Bel Paese. Stay tuned for more of Anne's blog contributions to follow!