Mbrella Mbrella

Not everybody hates the rain. In fact, some people depend on it. Here in Rome, at the first hint of a cloud in the sky, the streets are flooded with African and Bengalese men who peddle umbrellas. Hence their nickname 'mbrella 'mbrella or “vu cumpra” (butchered Italian for “want to buy”). There is even a rap song about them on youtube.

They sell the umbrellas for about 3 Euro each, although they will try to get more from people who do not try to bargain with them. It used to amaze me how these people manage to survive, and one day I decided to ask one of them just how they manage in an expensive city like Rome. As it turns out, the margin of profit on these umbrellas is about 1 Euro. Now, you might be thinking, how many umbrellas do they have to sell in order to actually make a living? The answer: not that many.

It is not uncommon for these immigrants to live in apartments in or outside of Rome where they share a living space with 15 or 20 other people. Mattresses or mats are strewn about the floor, and the men who live there work in shifts. While some work nights, peddling roses around Rome's restaurants and nightclubs, others sleep. When they wake, they head out to sell umbrellas, sunglasses, socks, cheap children's toys, or anything else that might make them a buck while their pals  rest up for the night shift.

A word to he wise, however, if they are selling knockoff designer goods, the fines are very steep for both the seller AND the buyer of the goods. If a police car pulls up and these guys are selling umbrellas, they will most likely scurry away. But if they are selling fake Prada bags or glasses, you will see them hurl those goods into a sheet, toss it over their shoulder like santa claus, and sprint off into the sunset. 

To live in one of these shared apartments, 100 Euro per month is usually more than sufficient. Everyone pitches in to buy groceries and someone prepares food regularly. Aside from that, what they earn is put aside and usually sent home to their country of origin, with hopes that one day they too will return home and have the money to live a life there without worrying about where they will sleep, or how they will feed their children.

Next time you get bombarded by these guys on the street while sightseeing in Rome, remember they are just trying to make a living. Their job isn't easy, which goes to show you that back home they must have it a lot worse. 

I for one don't mind them nearly as much as the gypsies, who target people sightseeing in Rome from miles away. Besides, I can recall at least one occasion when I have left home without an umbrella and was thankful that these guys sprout up all over the place before the first drop of rain even hits the ground!